Vis Island, Croatia, the most remote inhabited island in the Adriatic, offers a perfect escape, especially for those dreaming of a romantic getaway. Like many, we were utterly charmed by Mamma Mia: Here We Go Again (Mamma Mia 2). The stunning visuals and feel-good vibes inspired us to ditch our routine in Split, Croatia, for a mini-adventure to Vis, where many iconic scenes of this ABBA-infused sequel were filmed. If you’re wondering Mamma Mia Where To Watch these idyllic scenes unfold in real life, Vis Island is your answer. We packed light backpacks, ready to explore the cinematic beauty firsthand.
Our journey began with a smooth two-hour ferry ride from Split to Vis Town, courtesy of Jandrolinja, Croatia’s efficient ferry service. For less than $30 roundtrip for two, we enjoyed a scenic cruise across the Adriatic under clear, 72-degree skies, our anticipation building with every nautical mile. Pre-trip research, fueled by numerous Mamma Mia 2 location guides, suggested a perfect 24-hour itinerary: start in Vis Town, stay overnight in Komiža, and circle back to Vis. The big question loomed: how best to navigate this island paradise? Bikes seemed like a great option, but would regular bikes suffice, or were ebikes essential for conquering Vis’s terrain?
If you’re keen to see our adventure visually, you can find a video summary of our trip online, offering a sneak peek into the Mamma Mia magic of Vis.
Exploring Vis by Ebike: Your Ticket to Movie Locations
While Vis isn’t vast, it’s certainly too expansive to cover on foot within a day. Local buses offer transport from the ferry port to Komiža, located on the island’s western edge, for a mere $1.25 per person, with services running several times daily. Taxis are also available, as are water taxis for island circumnavigation. However, bikes caught our eye, promising freedom and flexibility.
Image alt text: Essential ebikes for rent in Vis, Croatia, perfect for exploring Mamma Mia 2 filming locations.
Initially, we considered standard mountain bikes, confident in our fitness. But a closer look at Vis’s hilly landscape and advice from locals quickly steered us towards ebikes. Vis Special, a local rental service we contacted via Instagram, proved invaluable. They patiently detailed routes to Mamma Mia 2 sites and strongly recommended ebikes. Heeding their expert advice, we secured an off-season deal of $65 for two hardtail ebikes for a 24-hour period, including essential accessories like locks, helmets, and chargers. Renting ebikes from Vis Special was undoubtedly the best decision, unlocking easy access to all the Mamma Mia 2 filming locations scattered across Vis.
Image alt text: Mountainous terrain of Vis Island, Croatia, highlighting the need for ebikes to comfortably explore.
Chasing Mamma Mia 2 Dreams: Beaches of Vis
With water bottles filled and maps in hand, we embarked from Vis Town, our ebikes pointed towards the first two beaches on our Mamma Mia 2 pilgrimage. Gratitude for those ebikes was immediate and immense. The ascent out of Vis Town was surprisingly steep; dare we say, Mount Everest-esque in miniature! Shifting into climbing gear and engaging the “Turbo” mode on our ebike batteries, we effortlessly zipped up the winding roads. Before we knew it, we arrived at our first beach stop, Milna. Vis was indeed living up to its reputation as a romantic haven.
Image alt text: Serene Milna Beach, Vis Island, Croatia, a location that inspired romantic dreams on a Mamma Mia themed trip.
Milna Beach instantly charmed us, setting the romantic tone for our entire Vis adventure. We imagined idyllic summers spent swimming in its tranquil bay and cozy winters reading by the water’s edge – perhaps even finding our own slice of paradise here. After a brief sea glass treasure hunt, we hopped back on our ebikes, eager to reach our first official Mamma Mia 2 filming location: Stiniva Beach.
Image alt text: Scenic route to Stiniva Beach, Vis Island, passing through vineyards and olive groves, showcasing old-world charm.
The ride from Milna to Stiniva Beach was a delightful journey through picturesque vineyards and olive groves, exuding an authentic, old-world charm. It also presented another series of challenging hills, putting our ebike “Turbo” mode to the test once more. Finally, a left turn led us off the main road, through more farms and groves, to the small parking area for Stiniva, about a mile down a side road. Reputed as one of Europe’s most beautiful beaches, this secluded cove served as the backdrop in Mamma Mia 2 during Sam’s nostalgic recollection of his first boat trip with Donna.
Stiniva Beach Reality Check: Beauty and the Crowds
Let’s be real about Stiniva Beach. Every boat tour departing from Split includes Stiniva, along with the Blue Cave, Green Cave, Vis, and Komiža. Witnessing the throngs of tourists in Split and the aggressive marketing of these “Blue Cave” tours, we were hesitant to join the masses. Past experiences in overly touristed spots like Cabo San Lucas in Mexico or Waikiki Beach in Hawaii, with chaotic boat traffic and snorkelers everywhere, flashed through our minds. The quest for that “perfect shot” often becomes an exercise in futility. So, how does one truly experience Stiniva Beach?
Image alt text: Stiniva Beach, Vis Island, Croatia, in shoulder season, before daily tour boat arrivals, offering a glimpse of tranquility.
Even in the shoulder season, we anticipated similar crowds in Vis. Hence, we opted to avoid organized tours, crafting our own Mamma Mia-inspired adventure, tailored to our ABBA fandom and desire for authentic experiences. (Plus, our DIY approach cost us only about $150 total for two, significantly less than the $250+ tour prices, while giving us exactly what we wanted.)
Reaching Stiniva Beach by road, we reasoned, would be the less crowded approach, as fewer tourists would brave the effort to reach this remote bay. However, we’d also heard tales of a “treacherous” hike down to the beach. Truth be told, the path was indeed challenging! Locking our ebikes, we began the rocky, scree-filled descent. About a third of the way down, I had to concede defeat. Without hiking poles and proper boots, my knees simply couldn’t handle the terrain.
Steve, ever the adventurer, continued his descent to Stiniva.
Image alt text: Bike lock sign at Stiniva Beach trail entrance, Vis Island.
Image alt text: Initial easy section of the hiking trail to Stiniva Beach, Vis.
Image alt text: Scenic views along the Stiniva Beach hiking trail in Vis, Croatia.
Image alt text: Ruthless scree section of the Stiniva Beach descent, challenging hike.
Image alt text: Scramble section of the Stiniva Beach trail, requiring careful footing.
Image alt text: Steep angles and slants on the Stiniva Beach hiking path, Vis Island.
But even Steve, undeterred initially, found the final stretch daunting. The scree path morphed into a near-scramble, where ropes wouldn’t have been out of place. He snapped photos, appreciating the view, and then turned back. Just as we’d anticipated, sunbathers and boats began to fill the bay – floating in, on, around, and through Stiniva. I was content to admire the bay’s beauty from above, relieved I hadn’t spent $125 on a crowded boat tour to get there.
Image alt text: Popular Stiniva Beach, Vis Island, attracting many visitors year-round, even outside peak season.
Romantic Interlude in Komiža
Thirsty after our Stiniva adventure, we continued our ebike journey towards Komiža. En route, local vintners were harvesting grapes, sheep grazed peacefully, and olives ripened on branches. We stopped to savor sweet purple grapes offered by local red wine producers – a taste of Vis hospitality. Then came one final, formidable, Turbo-powered climb into Komiža, followed by an exhilarating downhill coast into a charming town filled with live-aboard families on ocean-going sailboats, all enjoying Croatian warmth.
Image alt text: Steepest ebike climb in Vis, Croatia, utilizing turbo boost to reach Komiža.
Our cozy studio apartment, just off Komiža’s riva (waterfront promenade) and hosted by a gracious local, welcomed us warmly. We plugged in our ebikes to recharge, then headed out for sunset and dinner. In Mamma Mia 2, Bill and Harry famously plot their course to Donna’s in a seaside restaurant with an arched window. Konoba Jastožera is that place. However, its upscale menu, featuring lobster and delicacies, didn’t quite match our budget or craving. We opted for photos instead, appreciating its cinematic charm. Our Airbnb in Vis, however, was pure romantic perfection.
Instead, we discovered the delightful, locally-run Zagruda Pizzeria. Sitting outside on wooden benches, watching local boat crews in their blue and white uniforms complete their day’s tasks, we witnessed a stunning sunset over the bay, framed by tall masts. As dusk deepened, their mast lights twinkled like fireflies, and we indulged in local beers, regional cuisine, and genuine local ambiance. My hearty fishermen’s bean stew provided two meals and etched a cherished, locals-only memory.
Image alt text: Arched window of Konoba Jastožera in Komiža, Vis, Mamma Mia 2 movie scene location.
Sleep came easily that night. Tired legs and fresh sea air proved to be the perfect aphrodisiac for a romantic night. The next morning, Steve savored a delicious Americano and croissant, while I enjoyed a refreshing smoothie at a local café, surrounded by locals starting their day of tourism and fishing. We strolled through the small village, discovering its resident cats, hidden alleys, and historic churches.
Image alt text: Harbor of Komiža, Vis Island, dotted with yachts, fishing boats, and water taxis.
By 11 am, the sun had warmed the air enough to tempt us into a swim at one of Komiža’s many Mamma Mia 2-featured beaches. The clear, crisp water took our breath away, yet invigorated our muscles, preparing us for the ride back over the island’s spine to Vis Town. Uphill along the winding road we climbed, catching one last panoramic view of Komiža before a long, exhilarating downhill glide back into Vis, taking less than an hour to return to the port. We enjoyed exploring Vis Town further, getting acquainted with its charming marina areas.
Image alt text: Komiža town panorama from a high vantage point, Vis Island.
Image alt text: Friendly cat in Komiža, Vis, greeting visitors.
Image alt text: Picturesque glimpses of Komiža’s beauty, Vis Island, Croatia.
Image alt text: Seaside church in Komiža, a common sight in Croatian coastal towns.
Image alt text: Switchback roads on Vis Island, challenging cycling terrain.
Image alt text: View from Mamma Mia 2 restaurant, Konoba Jastožera, overlooking Komiža harbor.
Image alt text: Secluded swimming spot near Komiža, Vis Island, ideal for a refreshing dip.
Image alt text: Komiža cat sticking out its tongue, a quirky local feline characteristic.
Image alt text: Historic clock tower in Komiža, Vis, marking the town’s rhythm.
Reliving Mamma Mia 2 Magic: Charming Vis Town Scenes
Image alt text: St Jerronim church in Vis Town, Croatia, a Mamma Mia 2 filming location for Alexio’s wedding.
Back in Vis Town’s port, our Mamma Mia 2 exploration continued. Our ebikes carried us to a point on the bay where the church scene was filmed, where young Donna and Bill assist local fisherman Alexio in reaching St. Jerronim church to marry his sweetheart. Coincidentally, we spotted a catamaran named Mamma Mia 2 – perhaps owned by the church deacon? A quick peek inside St. Jerronim church roused a local napping within, and a peaceful stroll through the adjacent cemetery offered unexpectedly stunning views.
Image alt text: Steps leading to the Greek Taverna set in Vis Town, a recognizable Mamma Mia 2 location.
After returning our ebikes to Vis Special, we explored the “Greek Taverna” set on foot, another frequently featured location in the movie. Many scenes unfolded on the steps beside the “taverna” and its “market” at the base. In reality, the “taverna” is a charming B&B, and the steps lead into a residential neighborhood. But who’s to argue with Hollywood magic? It was fun to recreate movie moments and appreciate the artistry of the set designers and film commissions who brought this cinematic world to life.
Image alt text: Relaxing two-hour ferry ride to Vis Island, Croatia.
Image alt text: Road signs in Vis pointing towards destinations, adventure awaits.
Image alt text: Weathered door in Vis, Croatia, showcasing rustic island charm.
Image alt text: Large yacht in Vis harbor, wondering about its luxurious travels.
Image alt text: Catamaran named Mamma Mia 2 in Vis port, a fun movie connection.
Image alt text: Greek Market set from Mamma Mia 2 in Vis Town, now a charming street.
Image alt text: Alleyway leading to a B&B in Vis, reminiscent of movie set locations.
Finally, we wandered along Vis’s waterfront and port area, featured extensively throughout Mamma Mia 2. A local even mistook Steve for Pierce Brosnan and me for Meryl Streep, jokingly asking if we were in town for Mamma Mia 3 filming! While neither is true, we’d certainly be thrilled to be extras in a future Mamma Mia installment if it meant another stay on enchanting Vis. We fell in love with Vis and are already planning our return.
If you’re inspired to visit Vis, here’s your essential travel guide: where to stay, what to eat, where to rent bikes, and how to reach this Mamma Mia paradise:
Take the ferry: Jadrolinjia
Stay at: Apartments Donika
Eat at: Zadruga in Komiža and Pizza Charlie’s in Vis
Get ebikes from: Vis Special
Watch (or re-watch!): Mamma Mia: Here We Go Again! to fuel your Vis wanderlust.
By Chris Englert – The Walking Traveler.
