Cedar Key, a tranquil cluster of islands off the Gulf Coast of Florida, holds a unique charm that distinguishes it from the state’s bustling tourist hotspots. Often referred to as part of Florida’s Nature Coast, this destination beckons travelers seeking a blend of historical intrigue and natural serenity. But where is Cedar Key, Florida exactly?
Nestled on the western coast, Cedar Key is positioned as a gateway to a series of barrier islands at the southern meeting point of the Santa Fe and Suwannee Rivers as they gracefully merge into the Gulf of Mexico. This geographical setting has profoundly shaped its history and continues to define its appeal today.
Historically, the Cedar Keys were inhabited by indigenous peoples including the Timucuan, Apalachee, and Creek tribes. Over time, disease and conflict led to their departure, with remnants absorbed into the Seminole Nation. The islands’ secluded location subsequently attracted pirates, with legends placing the infamous Jean Lafitte at Seahorse Key around 1800, utilizing its elevated terrain as a strategic vantage point.
Cedar Key: A Town Steeped in History
The heart of the area, Cedar Key itself, is a quaint town located on Way Key. Its official establishment dates back to the early 1840s and notably, it was here in 1842 that the Second Seminole War formally concluded. The ensuing period saw a surge in steamboat traffic, transforming Cedar Key into a significant port. These vessels navigated the waterways, transporting cotton and lumber both along the Gulf Coast and internationally. Adding to its maritime importance, a lighthouse was erected on Seahorse Key in the 1850s, a beacon that still guides ships today.
The advent of the Cross Florida Railroad, championed by David Levy Yulee, further propelled Cedar Key’s growth. By connecting this once-isolated port to Fernandina on Florida’s Atlantic coast, the railroad facilitated the transport of lumber, turpentine, cotton, seafood, and passengers. This connectivity spurred development, with hotels and warehouses rapidly appearing to accommodate the burgeoning trade and influx of people.
Salt also emerged as a critical commodity in the 19th century, particularly for the Confederacy during the Civil War. Cedar Key became a site for salt production through seawater evaporation. However, in 1862, Union forces raided the area, dismantling the saltworks to cripple Confederate resources.
The 1880s marked Cedar Key’s zenith as Florida’s second-largest city, fueled by tourism brought in by the railroad. The abundant cedar forests attracted the Eagle Pencil company, which established a factory to manufacture pencils for global export. Yet, this prosperity was fleeting; the cedar forests were depleted within years. In 1896, a devastating hurricane swept through, demolishing the town and its vital docks, signaling a dramatic turning point.
Cedar Key Today: A Blend of Nature and Art
Present-day Cedar Key has reinvented itself as a tranquil haven, attracting artists and writers, and offering tourists a peaceful retreat immersed in nature. Birdwatching is particularly rewarding due to the proximity of the Cedar Key National Wildlife Refuge. Archeological digs in the area’s ancient shell mounds continue to unearth artifacts, providing insights into its rich past.
The Cedar Key State Museum serves as a repository of local history, displaying exhibits that chronicle the town’s evolution, alongside an impressive collection of seashells. Notably, one of the large kettles used for Civil War-era salt production is also on display, linking visitors directly to the area’s significant historical events.
Exploring the Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge
The Cedar Keys National Wildlife Refuge, established in 1929 by President Hoover, underscores the area’s commitment to conservation. Initially designated to protect colonial bird nesting sites across three islands, the refuge has since expanded. Seahorse Key, the outermost island within the refuge, boasts the highest elevation on Florida’s Gulf Coast at 52.3 feet and is a crucial nesting ground. Access restrictions during nesting season protect the large colonies of herons, egrets, brown pelicans, and ibis that thrive here.
The natural habitats within the refuge are diverse, ranging from forests of cabbage palm, red bay, live oak, and laurel oak, to understories rich with cherry laurel, saw palmetto, and other native flora. Mangrove swamps and salt marshes further contribute to the ecological richness. These varied environments support a vibrant ecosystem, including at least ten reptile species alongside the numerous bird populations.
John Muir’s Sojourn in Cedar Key
The renowned naturalist John Muir experienced Cedar Key firsthand during his 1867 journey to the Gulf of Mexico, documented in A Thousand Mile Walk to the Gulf. Falling ill with malaria upon arrival, Muir recuperated in Cedar Key, residing in the home of a mill superintendent. His convalescence was intertwined with nature as he explored the islands by boat. He wrote of his time, “…I crept away to the edge of the wood, and sat day after day beneath a moss-draped live oak, watching birds feeding on the shore when the tide was out. Later, as I gathered some strength, I sailed in a little skiff from one key to another.”
Muir’s writings beautifully capture the avian life he observed, describing the “assembling of these feathered people…herons white as wave-tops, or blue as the sky…pelicans coming with baskets to fill…” His Cedar Key experiences profoundly influenced his environmentalist perspective, contributing to his later role in establishing the National Park System. He revisited Cedar Key years later, drawn back to the place that had so deeply resonated with him.
Cedar Key is not a destination one stumbles upon accidentally; it requires intentional travel down a solitary highway. Yet, for those who seek it out, Cedar Key rewards with a rich tapestry of history, nature, and tranquility – a true gem of Florida’s Nature Coast.
