For over four decades, Hirsch Vineyards on the True Sonoma Coast has cultivated a profound understanding of terroir, deeply influenced by a powerful geological force: the San Andreas Fault. Just half a mile from the vineyard, this major fault line is not merely a geographical feature; it’s the dominant factor shaping their unique winemaking philosophy. The embodiment of this intricate relationship is their acclaimed San Andreas Fault Estate Pinot Noir, a wine that David Hirsch aptly calls “the Hirsch Hirsch,” capturing the essence of this dynamic interplay between earth and vine.
Hirsch Vineyards, a tapestry of 72 acres, is meticulously divided into 67 distinct farming blocks. This fragmentation, a result of the dramatic shifts in soil and aspect caused by the San Andreas Fault, surpasses even the renowned, subdivided vineyards of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits. The vineyard boasts an exceptional diversity of soils, aspects, elevations, and microclimates – a complexity born from its proximity to the fault. This inherent complexity dictates Hirsch’s farming and winemaking approach, where each block is individually nurtured, harvested, and vinified to express its unique character.
The San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir stands as Hirsch’s signature wine, a testament to the multifaceted nature of this remarkable vineyard. The 2020 vintage, for example, is a blend from 31 carefully selected farming blocks. This flagship wine represents the culmination of Hirsch’s intricate vineyard, a true reflection of its diverse terroir.
Alt text: Aerial view of Hirsch Vineyards in Sonoma Coast, California, showcasing the diverse landscape influenced by the San Andreas Fault, highlighting vineyard blocks and coastal proximity.
Tasting the Terroir: The 2020 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir
Reflecting the vintage and the vineyard’s character, the 2020 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir is distinguished by its dark fruit profile and robust structure. Initially, the wine unfolds with aromas of elderberry, blackberry, vibrant red plums, and dried cherries. As it breathes, layers of five spice, chai tea, and dried orange peel emerge, evoking the exotic and the familiar scents of the coastal redwood forests surrounding the vineyard.
Upon tasting, the wine presents a juicy entry, framed by firm, yet yielding tannins. With aeration, the fruit expands on the palate, achieving a harmonious balance with the tannins. The structure and dark fruit intensity of the 2020 vintage are reminiscent of the exceptional 2012 and 2015 vintages, suggesting a wine of intellectual depth and savory complexity that will reward those who cellar it patiently.
Serving Suggestion
To fully appreciate the nuances of the 2020 San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir, decanting is recommended. If enjoying within the first one to two years after release, allow it to breathe for an hour before serving. This will allow the wine to fully express its complex character and the unique terroir shaped by the San Andreas Fault.
Alt text: Close-up of Pinot Noir grapes on the vine at Hirsch Vineyards, Sonoma Coast, illustrating the fruit that contributes to the San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir, emphasizing ripeness and quality.
