The humble French fry, a globally beloved side dish, sparks a surprisingly heated debate about its true origins. While often associated with France, particularly in the United States, the crispy, golden potato sticks are at the heart of a Franco-Belgian culinary tug-of-war. Belgium is actively seeking UNESCO recognition for fries as a cornerstone of their cultural heritage, yet the definitive birthplace of this iconic food remains shrouded in mystery.
From British fish and chips to Canadian poutine, and the classic Parisian steak-frites, numerous cultures have embraced and adapted the simple fried potato. In Belgium, frieten served with mayonnaise are a national obsession. Despite the widespread moniker “French fry,” and France’s rich gastronomic history, many argue that the fry is distinctly Belgian. Albert Verdeyen, a chef and co-author of Carrément Frites, a book dedicated to the history of fries, firmly believes this.
“Americans call it a French fry,” Verdeyen states, “but it’s not a French fry, it’s a Francophone fry.” This assertion points to a narrative deeply rooted in Belgian folklore.
The Belgian Claim: The Namur Story
Popular legend places the invention of the fry in Namur, a French-speaking region of Belgium. The story goes that in the winter of 1680, the River Meuse froze over, preventing the locals from catching their usual small fried fish. Necessity being the mother of invention, they supposedly turned to potatoes, slicing and frying them as a substitute. Thus, according to this tale, the French fry was born.
Proponents of this origin story further claim that the name “French fry” itself is a result of this Belgian connection. American soldiers stationed in francophone Belgium during World War I supposedly tasted these fried potatoes and dubbed them “French fries,” due to the language spoken in the region. This catchy, albeit geographically imprecise, name stuck, spreading globally.
Despite Belgium’s passionate campaign to have fries recognized by UNESCO as a symbol of their cultural heritage, not everyone is convinced by the Namur legend.
Challenging the Belgian Origin Story
Culinary historian Pierre Leclercq, a professor at the University of Liège, casts doubt on the traditional Namur narrative. In an article exploring the history of fries, Leclercq deems the 1680 story “not plausible.”
Firstly, Leclercq points out a significant historical inaccuracy. Even if the Namur story holds a grain of truth, the timeline is likely off. Potatoes were not introduced to the region until around 1735, making a 1680 origin impossible. A more plausible date, if the legend is to be believed, would be 1739.
Secondly, and perhaps more critically, Leclercq questions the practicality of deep-frying potatoes in the late 17th or early 18th century for ordinary people. “In the 18th Century, fat was a luxury for people of limited means,” he explains. Butter was expensive, animal fats were scarce, and even cheaper vegetable fats were used sparingly. Peasants would consume fats directly, on bread or in soups, rather than “wasting” it on deep-frying. This economic reality challenges the notion that deep-fried potatoes would have emerged as a popular food among the common folk in Namur during that period.
Leclercq is not alone in seeking alternative origins for the French fry. France itself offers a compelling counter-narrative, leaning into the “French” part of the name.
The French Counter-Claim: Pommes Pont-Neuf
French proponents suggest that the fry’s true ancestor is the pomme Pont-Neuf. These were deep-fried potatoes sold by street vendors on Paris’s oldest bridge, the Pont Neuf, in the late 18th century. This timeline aligns with the increasing popularity of potatoes in France.
Initially met with suspicion upon their arrival from the New World, potatoes gradually gained acceptance in France, thanks in part to the efforts of agronomist Antoine-Augustin Parmentier. By 1795, potatoes were widely consumed across the country. It is therefore conceivable that the first iterations of the French fry emerged in France during this period, potentially from these Parisian bridge peddlers in the late 18th or early 19th century.
Street Food Origins and Anonymity
“The inventor of the fried potato will probably always remain anonymous,” Leclercq concludes. However, he speculates that this culinary innovator was likely a street peddler of Parisian origin. The very nature of street food makes tracing origins challenging. Recipes were not formally documented, and innovations spread organically through word-of-mouth and imitation.
Similarly, Madeleine Ferrière, a culinary historian, emphasizes this street food heritage, telling Le Monde, “The fry is a daughter of street cooking. That’s why it’s so hard to establish its birth certificate.”
The ambiguity extends even to early written references. It’s often unclear whether “fried potatoes” mentioned in historical texts refer to deep-fried strips or simply potatoes sautéed in a pan. The first clear description of the French fry in its modern form – elongated strips, double-fried for crispness – appears in a 20th-century Belgian guide, Traité d’économie domestique et d’hygiène. Yet, even this isn’t definitive proof of Belgian invention, as double-frying techniques existed in France as well, such as with pommes soufflées.
Cultural Ownership and Emblematic Versions
Perhaps, instead of a singular inventor, the story of the French fry is one of gradual evolution and widespread adoption. And perhaps, more importantly than pinpointing a precise origin, is understanding which cultures have truly embraced and shaped the fry into emblematic dishes.
While the name might suggest France, the United States has undeniably integrated the French fry into its culinary identity. The average American consumes a staggering 29 pounds of fries annually. During a period of political tension, the US even briefly renamed French fries “Freedom fries,” highlighting the dish’s symbolic, if sometimes misdirected, cultural significance in America.
Canada, home to McCain Foods, the world’s largest producer of frozen French fries, has also elevated the fry to national dish status with poutine. This Québécois creation, combining fries, cheese curds, and gravy, emerged in rural Quebec in the 1950s. Though even poutine’s precise origins are debated, it firmly establishes fries as a central component of Canadian cuisine.
Across the Atlantic, in the UK, fish and chips reigns supreme. While British “chips” differ slightly from fries in cut and preparation, the connection is undeniable. Fish and chips shops, affectionately known as “chippies,” are a cornerstone of British food culture.
France, of course, has its own sophisticated relationship with fries. Steak-frites, pairing grilled steak with fried potatoes, is a classic French bistro staple. The pomme Pont-Neuf, with its precise rectangular cut, represents a more refined, haute cuisine approach to fried potatoes.
Belgian Fries as the Gold Standard
Despite these global adaptations and claims, Belgian fries often remain the benchmark for quality. In Belgium, fries are not merely a side dish; they are a meal in themselves. Traditionally made from Bintje potatoes and double-fried in beef tallow, they are served in paper cones with a dollop of mayonnaise from frietkot – simple fry shacks that dot the Belgian landscape.
Brussels has even invested in revitalizing these frietkot, recognizing their cultural importance. While some debate the need for modernization, the frietkot remain an integral part of Belgian identity. As architect Thomas Hick noted, “The frietkots are old and ramshackle and it’s something we like about Brussels… As opposed to the French way – the Belgians are more raw in the way they eat frites.”
Albert Verdeyen echoes this sentiment: “I think that Belgians can, very easily, eat fries on their own.” This singular devotion to the fry, elevating it beyond a mere accompaniment, perhaps solidifies Belgium’s claim to fry fame, regardless of its exact origin.
Conclusion
So, where are fries from? The definitive answer remains elusive. While both Belgium and France present compelling narratives, the true origin of the French fry may forever be lost to the annals of street food history. However, what is undeniable is the fry’s global journey and cultural adaptation. From American fast-food chains to Canadian poutine joints, British chippies, and Parisian bistros, the humble fried potato has conquered the world. Yet, in the hearts (and stomachs) of many, particularly fry aficionados, Belgium remains the spiritual home of les frites, the gold standard against which all other fries are measured.
