Often described as both an “illustrious invalid” and “the saddest work of art,” Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper is undeniably one of the most significant and emotionally resonant paintings in the world. These poignant descriptions, however, refer not to the biblical scene depicted, but to the centuries of neglect that have left this masterpiece in a fragile state. If you’re seeking to witness this iconic artwork for yourself, you’ll find it in the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, Italy.
Locating Leonardo’s Last Supper: Santa Maria delle Grazie
Nestled in the heart of Milan, the UNESCO World Heritage site of Santa Maria delle Grazie is more than just a church; it’s the home of Leonardo da Vinci’s Last Supper. This Dominican convent and church complex is a stunning example of Renaissance architecture, making it a worthwhile destination even before stepping inside to view the famed mural. The Last Supper isn’t housed within the main church building itself, but rather in the refectory, or dining hall, of the convent. This placement is significant as it reflects the painting’s original purpose: to visually inspire the monks during their meals, connecting their daily lives to the pivotal biblical event.
A Masterpiece in Peril: The Last Supper’s Condition
Upon your first encounter with The Last Supper, the remarks of Henry James about an “illustrious invalid” will resonate deeply. The painting is in a perpetual state of restoration due to its delicate condition. This fragility is immediately apparent, evoking a sense of reverence mixed with concern. As James noted, visitors approach it with “leave-taking sighs and almost death bed or tiptoe precautions,” a testament to its precarious state. The peeling and crumbling paint indeed make one question if this incredible artwork will endure for future generations to admire.
A significant factor contributing to the painting’s deterioration lies with Leonardo da Vinci himself. In a decision that proved detrimental over time, he opted to use oil paint on a dry plaster wall, a far less stable technique for murals than the traditional fresco method. Fresco, using water-based pigments on wet plaster, bonds chemically with the wall as it dries, resulting in a much more durable artwork. Leonardo’s experimental oil and tempera technique, while allowing for greater detail and luminosity initially, began to deteriorate within mere years of its completion around 1498.
History and Restoration: A Miraculous Survival
The unfortunate choices made in painting technique were only compounded by centuries of damage. A mere two hundred years after its creation, Napoleon’s troops used the refectory wall as target practice. In a truly miraculous turn of events, during the Second World War, a bomb devastated most of Santa Maria delle Grazie, yet the refectory wall bearing The Last Supper remained standing. This near-destruction underscores the almost unbelievable survival of the artwork through wars and natural decay.
The extensive damage throughout history has necessitated ongoing and often intrusive restoration efforts for over two centuries. This raises a crucial question: how much of what we see today is truly Leonardo’s original work? Past restoration methods were considerably more invasive than modern techniques, leading to debates about authenticity and the extent of intervention.
The Da Vinci Code Effect and Lasting Fascination
Despite its damaged state and the controversies surrounding restoration, The Last Supper continues to captivate millions of visitors annually. Its fame reached new heights with Dan Brown’s The Da Vinci Code, which placed the painting at the center of its narrative and fueled intense public interest. The book’s theories, particularly regarding the interpretation of figures within the painting, have added another layer of intrigue for viewers, prompting them to scrutinize the artwork for hidden meanings, such as the debated identity of a figure as Mary Magdalene. The surge in visitors following the book’s publication arguably propelled The Last Supper to surpass even the Mona Lisa in terms of Leonardo’s most viewed and discussed masterpiece.
Experiencing The Last Supper: What to Expect
The sheer scale and drama of The Last Supper are breathtaking. Spanning an entire wall of the refectory, the life-size figures immerse the viewer directly into the biblical scene. Leonardo masterfully grouped the disciples in dynamic sets of three around a central, serene Christ, creating a triangular composition that emphasizes the Trinity. His innovative use of perspective is also striking; the painted room within the mural appears to extend seamlessly from the actual walls of the refectory, drawing the viewer into the scene. All perspective lines converge upon Christ, the focal point of the drama about to unfold. Even through the aged and restored pigments, the genius of Leonardo’s meticulous planning and artistic skill remains undeniable. Legend has it that Leonardo spent years searching the streets of Milan for individuals whose faces would perfectly embody the disciples, seeking specific expressions and characteristics.
Visiting The Last Supper: Practical Information
Given its immense popularity and the need to control visitor numbers to protect the fragile artwork, viewing The Last Supper requires advance planning. It is highly advisable to book tickets well in advance of your visit. Tickets often sell out weeks or even months ahead, and without a reservation, you are likely to be disappointed. Plan your visit to Milan accordingly and secure your tickets to witness this unparalleled masterpiece in person.
