Have you ever wondered, “where’s my cheese?” when your favorite French imports are missing from the shelves? The answer might be more complex than you think, involving FDA import alerts and a costly regulatory landscape that’s particularly tough on smaller producers. Last summer, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) placed Beillevaire cheeses, alongside other French delicacies, under an Import Alert. This action, impacting various raw-milk and even pasteurized cheeses, has created significant hurdles for importers and cheesemongers, changing the landscape of cheese availability in the US.
The Beillevaire Exit: A Case Study in Import Alert Hardship
For Beillevaire, a producer known for its quality and traditional methods, the FDA’s Import Alert proved too burdensome. Several of their shipments faced destruction, and the sheer cost and administrative load required to lift the alert became unsustainable. Ultimately, Beillevaire made the difficult decision to withdraw from the US market. As one industry expert aptly put it, “Who needs this tsouris?” – highlighting the frustration with a system that seems stacked against smaller international producers.
Fromager d’Affinois: Navigating the Regulatory Maze at a High Price
Beillevaire wasn’t alone. Fromagerie Guilloteau’s Fromager d’Affinois, a popular French cheese in the US, also found itself under an Import Alert. While Guilloteau, a larger operation, managed to navigate the situation, it came at a substantial cost. Estimates suggest it cost them nearly $100,000 to get their product cleared. This hefty sum, while manageable for a company with significant US business, underscores the financial strain these alerts place on producers.
The Uneven Playing Field: Small Producers Bear the Brunt
The core issue isn’t necessarily about food safety, but rather the economic realities of navigating the FDA’s import regulations. Small cheese producers often lack the financial resources to withstand prolonged import alerts. The process to get removed from an alert requires five consecutive “clean” tests, and the current bacterial count standards are so stringent that some traditional cheeses struggle to meet them, regardless of their actual safety for consumption.
This raises a critical question: if these cheeses were genuinely hazardous, wouldn’t the French, who consume them in far greater quantities, be facing public health issues? The regulatory bar, while intended to protect consumers, appears to disproportionately impact smaller, traditional producers, potentially limiting the diversity of cheeses available to American consumers.
Cheesemongers and Consumers: Missing Out on Specialty Cheeses
The withdrawal of producers like Beillevaire has direct consequences for cheese shops and consumers. Stephanie Jordan, a sales representative at WBC, notes the difficulty in explaining to cheesemongers why these sought-after cheeses are no longer available. These limited-production, artisanal cheeses are precisely what specialty cheese shops desire, offering unique flavors and experiences that are distinct from mass-produced grocery store options. The FDA’s actions inadvertently reduce the variety and character of cheeses accessible to American palates.
Presumed Guilty: The Importer’s Perspective
To many in the industry, the FDA’s approach feels like a presumption of guilt until a cheese proves its innocence. Portuguese imports, in particular, have faced significant challenges. One importer recounted holding shipments of Zimbro, a sheep’s milk cheese, multiple times in a single year. The delays were extensive, sometimes taking months for sample collection and result delivery, often leading to product expiration. The frustrating irony? These cheeses consistently passed the tests, highlighting a system that imposes significant costs and delays even on compliant products.
The ongoing import alert situation raises concerns about the balance between regulation and accessibility. While ensuring food safety is paramount, the current system appears to create undue hardship for smaller international producers and ultimately limits the “where’s my cheese?” options for American consumers seeking diverse and flavorful cheese experiences.
