Controversy in the world of horology is rare, extending beyond mere aesthetic disagreements to fundamental debates about concept and taste. Yvan Arpa, a figure synonymous with provocative watch design, masterfully navigated this territory during his tenure at Romain Jerome, particularly with the iconic Titanic DNA collection. This timepiece encapsulates Arpa’s audacious approach and the brand’s distinctive legacy.
At a time of economic exuberance, Romain Jerome was initially known for novelty golf-themed watches, a niche that struggled for traction as golfers generally preferred wrist-free play. The arrival of Yvan Arpa marked a pivotal shift. He envisioned a watch that embodied luxury, exclusivity, and global recognition, leading to the inception of the Titanic-DNA series, drawing inspiration from the world’s most infamous maritime disaster.
The Titanic-DNA concept was inherently provocative: timepieces incorporating actual material recovered from the Titanic wreckage. This sparked immediate debate. Some deemed it a sacrilege, dishonoring the memory of the tragedy’s victims, while others perceived it as a unique and compelling tribute. Regardless of personal sentiment, the concept undeniably captured attention and sparked conversation. A key question that arose was the extent to which the Titanic’s material was integrated into each watch.
Arpa’s design also reflected his fascination with decay and oxidation, evident in the watch’s oxidized metal bezel. While not the first in the Titanic DNA line, this particular model showcases the quintessential, original dial design. It stands as a testament to Arpa’s enduring creative vision.
Close-up of the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watch dial showing textured surface and anchor-shaped hands
While Manuel Emch now leads Romain Jerome, the Titanic DNA collection remains a cornerstone, evolving with new iterations. The T-Oxy III model, part of their limited edition offerings, is available in black steel, a polished and black steel combination, or 18k red gold, as featured here. The bezel utilizes Romain Jerome’s “stabilized Titanic Extreme rusted steel,” the core element linking the watch to its namesake.
The “DNA” in Titanic DNA is literal. The bezel incorporates trace amounts of metal salvaged from the Titanic, alongside steel from the Harland and Wolff shipyard where the ship was built, and other steel components. Romain Jerome employs a proprietary oxidation process, immersing the metal in a water treatment for several days to achieve its distinctive rusted appearance, evoking the Titanic’s submerged state. Ironically, historical analysis suggests that the original Titanic hull metal might have been of suboptimal quality, potentially contributing to the disaster when it struck the iceberg.
Side view of the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watch showcasing the 46mm case size and bezel claws
Top view of the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watch highlighting the dial details and red gold case
The Titanic DNA case measures 46mm in diameter and 15mm in thickness. Over the years, Romain Jerome has presented this model in diverse materials, including steel, gold, and ceramic. Despite its seemingly simple form, the case exhibits intricate details such as brushed and polished surfaces and the signature bezel “claws.” The dial is particularly striking, featuring anchor-inspired hands with luminous tips, and brushed, period-style Arabic numerals ensuring readability. A subtle red accent on the subsidiary seconds dial, resembling an engine room gauge, adds a refined touch. While some Titanic DNA models include a date window within the sub-seconds dial, this version, sans date, is arguably more aesthetically refined. The dial’s texture subtly echoes the bezel, crafted with a touch of “Titanic coal,” according to Romain Jerome.
Close-up of the Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watch dial texture and anchor-shaped hands in detail
The case back is engraved with an image of the Titanic as it appeared at sea, not underwater, and includes the watch’s limited edition number. Most Titanic DNA editions are capped at 2,012 pieces, reflecting Romain Jerome’s commitment to limited production. This 18k red gold model bears the reference T.OXY3.2222.00.BB and is paired with a rubber strap featuring the RJ logo and a titanium and 18k red gold butterfly clasp. The clasp is designed to resemble a traditional ardillon buckle but incorporates pushers for release, adding complexity. The RJ logo is subtly integrated into the titanium clasp component. The watch would also pair elegantly with a black alligator or crocodile strap.
Powering the watch is a Swiss Concepto caliber C22RJ51 automatic movement. The Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watch is compelling for multiple reasons. The Titanic connection serves as an intriguing narrative layer. Fundamentally, it represents Yvan Arpa’s artistic vision, blending historical elements with Romain Jerome’s avant-garde ethos, solidifying its status as a polarizing yet iconic timepiece. It is also well-constructed and comfortable to wear, with excellent legibility. The 18k red gold model is priced at 23,900 Swiss Francs, while the T-OXY III collection starts at 11,900 Swiss Francs.
Romain Jerome Titanic DNA T-OXY III
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